Duck and Waffle is situated on level 40 of the Heron Tower on Bishopsgate, above the London Branch of Sushi Samba. I visited the latter for work reasons and insisted that Mr G take me back for a special dinner at some point. The problem? He doesn't eat fish. Hmm. Sushi becomes slightly less fun if you can't eat it. I researched the venue a little bit more and then discovered Duck and Waffle's menu was much more appealing for a non-fish eater, and so we set the date for our 3rd wedding anniversary, last week.
On arrival we had to ring a door bell at the big glass entrance at floor level at which point a burly, surly doorman came out and asked questions as if we were under CIA interrogation before even allowing us past the rope, let alone through the door. We gritted our teeth and stuck with it as I knew that the meet-and-greet and serving staff in the actual venue are much more polite, welcoming and humble, and the views and setting were worth it. After little bit of queuing (despite having made reservations and confirmed them, twice), being asked to "stand over there" (apparently a VIP queue or something) and being jostled slightly by other perturbed street-queuers, we were in and waiting for the lift. From this point onwards our experience got much better. In hindsight I understand that in the building with such controlled and limited access there needs to be a strict entry system, but I do feel that there are nicer ways to go about implementing and enforcing it.
The high-speed, glass, exterior lift is not for the faint hearted but you get some great views of the City on the way up so do try to open your eyes, even for just a few seconds. On arrival at level forty we were met by the welcome staff and seated in the "open" bar and talked through the "concept". Rather than a traditional bar area (i.e. a counter, mixologists standing behind it, servers taking orders or you standing at the bar to order a drink) the bar is more of a central work station around which the bar tenders stand to mix up your concoctions to order. There is a short, but sweet, cocktail menu available, but the idea is that you are able to interact with the bar tenders so they can make your drink to your specifications. Essentially you are involved in, and close to, the process. Well, this is how I see it anyway. I asked for a "Cosmopolitan (obviously) with an update". It came back with a, and I quote "smooth peach undertone and a dry, apple aftertaste". Basically, it was gooooood.
|Sunset over London|
On being seated at a table (less than 20 cm from one of the floor to ceiling windows – again not for the faint hearted) we were talked through the concept of the menu. Everything is intended to be shared and eaten all together, a bit like tapas. So we got stuck in and ordered our little hearts out! We started with mini battered sausages with mustard and pea and mint arancini, followed by duck rillette with sourdough bread, beer chutney and pistachios and the foie gras "all day breakfast". Next up were the lamb cutlets accompanied by smoked aubergine and the dish from which the restaurant obviously takes its name, the Duck and Waffle (crispy leg confit, fried duck egg, mustard maple syrup on a big fluffy waffle).
With all that on the table our attention was diverted away the views out over the east London and back towards the sun setting over the west end and toward the task at hand – consuming all that rich food. Thankfully, although there was a lot on the table, the actual portions aren't massive which means that you can order more than you would normally, so you can try as many dishes as possible, but you don't feel like you've over indulged – well not too much! We finished off with a shared dessert – gooey, appley, mapley, ice creamy, yummness in a pan – a possible rival to the tipsy pudding at Dinner and a glass of home-grown Sussex bubbly.
Considering how much we ordered and the unusual setting I was surprised at the bill. I thought it would have been much more. To clarify, it's not a cheap and cheerful dining option, but all factors considered I felt that it was more than reasonable. So, seeing as they now have 24 hour dining in place, and it's not too outlandishly priced – this perhaps isn't just a restaurant for special occasions as I once thought, but also somewhere to hole up in the cold winter months when you miss your last train and you need some food and alcohol to see you through until morning. Or maybe that's just me...
Overall, if you can get past the rude door staff and the uncivilised queuing system, it's worth it for some great views, some unusual food and some great cocktails on the highest roof terrace in Europe.
Click here for the website and to book, and here for their Facebook page which contains some cool photos.
|Looking at Sushi Samba from Duck and Waffle's private room|